Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Vs. L-Ascorbic Acid: The Better Vitamin C Derivative
Vitamin C is an effective and popular skincare ingredient owing to its properties. It brightens the skin, protects against exogenous ageing, and helps reduce pigmentation.
But it's never about benefits alone. Factors, including stability, pH requirement, and skin penetration, need to be checked, which vary across different vitamin C derivatives.
This is why some vitamin C serums outperform others. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and l-ascorbic acid are two derivatives that are constantly compared. Wondering which form of Vitamin C is the most effective? We’ve got you covered.
What Is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, or THD Ascorbate, is a derivative of vitamin C. It is a part of the ascorbic acid ester family, oil-soluble and known for its stability and efficacy. Though not the most common vitamin C form, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is gaining recognition due to its advanced properties.
It can penetrate the skin deeper with its defined structure because the ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) molecule is linked to the fatty acid hexyl-decanoate. This allows it to act upon the skin's surface more efficiently.
Compatible with all skin types in general, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is result-driven and a gentler form of vitamin C. People with sensitive skin types can try considering it with their doctor’s advice.
How Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Benefits Your Skin
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate or THD is an effective skincare active that delivers several benefits, including;
- Supporting collagen production: Collagen production is vital to your skin’s firmness and suppleness. Over time, you can get rid of fine lines and wrinkles with consistent use alongside other anti-ageing benefits.
- Protecting against environmental aggressors, including pollutants: Long-term exposure to UV radiation, pollutants, toxins, and free radicals leads to concerns, like acne, dullness, pigmentation, and inflammation. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate acts like a strong barrier to protect your skin.
- Strengthening barrier: It is lipid-soluble, allowing it to blend with the skin’s natural lipids and strengthen the protective barrier. This helps reduce dryness and keeps your skin healthy and glowing.
- Addressing dullness: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can promote bright, smooth-textured skin by fighting blemishes, spots, and uneven skin tone.
Also Read: Is It Safe to Use Salicylic Acid and Vitamin C Together?
What Is L-Ascorbic Acid
L-ascorbic acid is the purest and most active form of vitamin C. This popular choice is available in a wide range of skincare and some makeup formulations, such as tinted moisturisers.
It's a water-soluble compound and is highly effective in triggering collagen production. That said, it can be unstable and oxidise before it reaches your skin. You can find it in skincare formulations ranging from serums to cleansers and moisturisers.
How L-Ascorbic Acid Benefits Your Skin
L-ascorbic acid brightens the skin, reduces dark spots and post-acne hyperpigmentation, fights the signs of ageing, including crow's feet and fine lines, and evens out the skin tone.
Antioxidants impart many benefits to your skin's health. These compounds safeguard your cells against specific damage. L-ascorbic acid has antioxidant properties that protect your skin from environmental stress by neutralising free radicals. Playing an integral role in skin’s overall health, L-ascorbic acid works to protect, repair, and rejuvenate the skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Vs. L-ascorbic Acid
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and L-ascorbic acid provide some common benefits to the skin, including free radical defence and skin tone correction. But they are different to each other in their efficacies and interaction with the skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a clear winner. This is how Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can be a better option than L-ascorbic acid.
- Stability: THD has a long shelf life and lasting results, while L-ascorbic acid is unstable. Exposure to Light and air decreases the product's lifespan.
- pH: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is less irritating and usually suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. L-ascorbic acid needs a low pH environment and can irritate your skin, especially in the beginning.
- Oil-solubility: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is oil-soluble and can go deeper into your skin layers, including the epidermis and dermis. L-ascorbic acid is water-soluble and does not penetrate deeper.
- Gentleness: THD Ascorbate is milder on the beginner's skin compared to the other vitamin C form. Individuals can fight redness, pigmentation, and antioxidant benefits in low concentrations every day.
Also Read: Can You Use Niacinamide and Vitamin C Together?
Which is Better for Your Skin
Which form is better depends on your concern, skin type, tolerance, and other factors. THD remains mild for new users. Even if your skin is sensitive, you can use it after a patch test. However, taking a doctor’s advice will keep your sensitive skin safer. On the other hand, if you are a Vitamin C pro, L-Ascorbic Acid can also be used.
Should You Use Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Serum
Serums are fast-absorbing, lightweight and non-greasy, can directly target the concern and are super handy to use. You can layer them perfectly under moisturisers on cleansed skin. They can penetrate deeper into the layers of your skin to act upon the problem.
Using a Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serum can be the most effective way to take the benefits of vitamin C. Your skin needs continuous refining to maintain a subtle tone. TDH ascorbate serum can restrict the process of melanogenesis, which can clear the skin. It further reduces age spots and brightens the complexion.
THD serum can offer all these benefits, provided you know how to choose a vitamin C serum. There must be the right concentration of vitamin C formulated with other ingredients.
Ultra C Serum with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
If you are looking for a Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate-enriched serum, try your hand at DRSQ's Ultra C serum. It has 10% Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is gentle on the skin and retains potency longer due to its lipid solubility. This formulation can combat free radical-induced lipid peroxidation, which is a major factor in skin ageing and cell damage.
The formula has 15% SUPEROX-C™ or Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) – known as the world's richest source of vitamin C alongside magnesium ascorbyl phosphate to suppress melanin production and inhibit further pigmentation.
It brightens the skin tone and improves texture by targeting discolouration. Moreover, this ultrapotent and highly stable serum can improve the skin's hydration levels and make it supple.
Is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Safe in Pregnancy?
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is considered a low-risk, mild skincare ingredient and using it during pregnancy usually causes no harm. However, while using any skincare product or ingredient during pregnancy, it’s highly advisable to consult your doctor for the best advice.
Every pregnancy is different; thus, you require special attention and personal recommendations before trying anything new in this important phase.
The Final Verdict
While L-ascorbic acid has been known and used for a long time in skincare as a vitamin C derivative, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate represents the future of antioxidant ingredients. Due to its gentleness, efficacy, and stability, it is slowly gaining popularity over L-ascorbic acid.
This more potent form can benefit sensitive skin, making it a contemporary choice for many skincare enthusiasts.
References:
- Virender Kumar, Neha Tanwar, Muskan Goel, Mohit Khan, Davinder Kumar, Gajendra Singh, Jyoti Mundlia, Naveen Khatri, Ashwani Kumar, "Antioxidants for Skin Health", 2024 Aug
- Alan D Widgerow, Mary E Ziegler, John A Garruto, Faiza Shafiq, "Antioxidants with proven efficacy and elastin-conserving vitamin C-A new approach to free radical defense", 2023 Dec
- S R Pinnell, H Yang, M Omar, N Monteiro-Riviere, H V DeBuys, L C Walker, Y Wang, M Levine, "Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies", 2001 Feb
- Philippe G Humbert, Marek Haftek, Pierre Creidi, Charles Lapière, Betty Nusgens, Alain Richard, Daniel Schmitt, André Rougier, Hassan Zahouani, "Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo", 2003 Jun
