Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Vs. L-Ascorbic Acid: The Better Vitamin C Derivative

Undoubtedly, vitamin C has gained a lot of much-deserved popularity over the years due to its proven benefits and ease of access. But it's time to understand vitamin C even better. 

Did you know that Vitamin C serums are not all made alike? The difference lies in the ingredients. Yes, the derivate of vitamin C used in the product decides the efficacy and stability of the serum and how it's going to benefit your skin concern. This is why some vitamin C serums outperform others. 

But which derivative is superior and why? Read on the blog to get all your queries answered.

What Is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a derivative of vitamin C and is commonly called THD Ascorbate. It is a part of the ascorbic acid ester family, oil-soluble and known for its stability and efficacy. 

The most common form of vitamin C which is used in skincare is L-ascorbic acid, however nowadays, people have started to recognise Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate due to its advanced properties and looking for formulations with the same. 

It has the ability to penetrate the skin even deeper due to its definite chemical structure in which the ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) molecule is linked to the fatty acid hexyl-decanoate – this allows it to act upon the skin's concerns more efficiently. Compatible with all skin types in general, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is result-driven and more gentle. 

People with sensitive skin types can use it too, but taking a bit of advice from your cosmetologist would make you smarter. 

How Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Benefits Your Skin

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate or THD can deliver several benefits to your skin including;

• Boosting collagen synthesis: It can promote the production of collagen in your skin, making it firm and smooth. 
• Guarding against environmental aggressors: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can shield your skin from the damaging effects of pollutants and UV exposure. 
• Delivering antioxidant defence: This potent derivative of vitamin C can protect your skin from oxidative stress and neutralise it from free radicals to provide a youthful, healthy glow. 
• Addressing dullness: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can promote bright and smooth-textured skin by acting on blemishes, spots, and unevenness. 
  

What Is L-Ascorbic Acid

L-ascorbic acid is the purest and most active form of vitamin C. This is the popular choice and is thus available in a wide range of skincare and makeup formulations. Its antioxidant properties protect your skin from environmental stress by neutralising free radicals.

It's a water-soluble compound and is highly effective in triggering the production of collagen in your skin.  That said, it can be unstable and oxidises before it reaches your skin.

Similar to Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, it also brightens the skin, reduces dark spots and post-acne hyperpigmentation, fights the signs of ageing including crow's feet and fine lines, and evens out the skin tone. 

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Vs. L-ascorbic Acid 

On comparing Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and L-ascorbic acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a clear winner though the latter is not bad as well. 

This is how Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate overcomes L-ascorbic acid;

Stability: THD has more shelf life and long-lasting results while L-ascorbic acid is unstable. Exposure to Light and air decreases the product's lifespan. 

pH: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is not irritating and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. L-ascorbic acid needs a low pH environment and can irritate your skin, especially in the beginning. 

Oil-solubility: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is oil-soluble and has the ability to go deeper into the layers of your skin, including the epidermis and dermis. L-ascorbic acid is water-soluble and does not penetrate deeper. 

Also Read: Can You Use Niacinamide and Vitamin C Together?

Why Should You Use Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Serum 

The serums are lightweight and non-greasy, directly targeting the concern and super handy to use. Using a Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serum can be the most effective way to take the benefit of vitamin C. 

Let’s see how Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serum can help your concerns;

Works for sensitive skin: If your skin is sensitive, you might have faced challenges trying skincare products. Vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid may and may not suit your sensitive skin. The Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate works well for sensitive skin and its associated concerns such as inflammation and irritation. 

Refines skin's surface: Your skin needs refining every now and then to maintain a subtle tone. TDHA can restrict the process of melanogenesis which can clear out the skin. It further reduces age spots and brightens the skin. 

Battle free radicals: UVA and UVB rays can cause enough damage to the skin and TDHA can successfully combat that. It suppresses the damage and protects the skin from external factors and the most general reasons for early ageing. 

THD serum can offer all these benefits, provided, you select the appropriate product. There must be the right concentration of vitamin C formulated and combined with other ingredients. 

Ultra C Serum with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 

If you are looking for a Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate-enriched serum, DRSQ's Ultra C is all you need. It has 10% Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate which is gentle on the skin and retains potency longer due to its lipid solubility. It can combat free radical-induced lipid peroxidation which is a major factor in skin ageing and cell damage. 

The formula has 15%  SUPEROX-C™ or Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) – known as the world's richest source of vitamin C alongside magnesium ascorbyl phosphate to suppress melanin production and inhibit further pigmentation. 

It brightens the skin tone, improves texture and targets discolouration. Moreover, this ultrapotent and highly stable serum can improve the skin's hydration levels and make it supple. 

Can You Use Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in Pregnancy? 

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is considered a low-risk skincare ingredient and using it during pregnancy usually causes no harm. However, while using any skincare product or ingredient during pregnancy, it’s highly advisable to consult your doctor for the best advice. 

Every pregnancy is different thus, you require special attention and personal recommendations before trying anything new in this important phase. 

The Final Verdict 

While L-ascorbic acid has been known and used for a long time in skincare as a vitamin C derivative, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate represents the future of antioxidant ingredients. Due to its gentleness, efficacy, and stability, it has become a dominant choice over L-ascorbic acid. 

It has the ability to penetrate the skin’s layers deeply and target your skin problems. This more potent form can benefit sensitive skin, making it a contemporary choice for many skincare enthusiasts. 

References:
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology
Cosmetics & Toiletries Science Applied 
The American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (ACOG)