Vitamin C for Skincare: All You Need to Know

Vitamin C, backed by science and trusted by dermatologists, stands out as a wonderful skincare ingredient for combating many concerns, including premature ageing, dullness, and dark spots. 

According to a study, topical Vitamin C can encourage the activation of dermal synthesis of elastic fibres, helping restore the elasticity of photodamaged skin. 

In this blog, we will learn more about using vitamin C for skin care, its role as an antioxidant and how it works for your skin. 

Understanding Vitamin C 

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant and a water-soluble vitamin that helps humans' overall health. But when it comes to skin, the benefits are no less. Whether it is collagen synthesis to fight the early signs of ageing or giving your skin that much-awaited glow boost, vitamin C is all you need. 

It helps protect the skin from environmental aggressors and works synergistically well with other ingredients in topical formulations. When applied topically, vitamin C can transform your skin from the outside in, making it a must-have in your skincare arsenal. 

How Vitamin C Works for Your Skin 

Vitamin C is a naturally occurring component in your skin that encourages the skin's architecture by stimulating the production of collagen. Collagen is a protein responsible for keeping your skin wrinkle-free, plump, and healthy. However, as you age, collagen starts decreasing, and here's why you need vitamin C to synthesise collagen. 

It can inhibit melanin production, helping to fight hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Moreover, vitamin C has anti-inflammatory action, neutralising free radicals that cause oxidative damage to your skin. It may also optimise the immune system, further discouraging the inflammatory immune response. 

Topical Forms of Vitamin C 

Not every vitamin C is the same. Topical vitamin C added to the skincare has different forms serving relative purposes. They differ from each other in potencies and sensitivities to environmental factors such as light and water. 

1. L-Ascorbic Acid

A very common form of vitamin C that is found in abundance, almost everywhere. It's a most potent form, preferred by many dermatologists because there is extensive research on this one particularly. An antioxidant that can help you fight oxidative stress making it effective in the repair process of the skin. 

2. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

It was discovered much later by L-ascorbic acid but is known for its intense ability to penetrate deeply into the skin's lipid layers. It is oil-soluble and suitable for all skin types along with sensitive ones. It is stable and can work to even out your skin tone and promote collagen formation close to the dermis.

3. Ascorbyl Palmitate

It is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C with a lower risk of irritation and better stability striking a harmonious balance with antioxidant protection. Sensitive skin types can tolerate it though it's not as potent as L-ascorbic acid. Ascorbyl palmitate is less susceptible to fast degradation and hence has a better shelf life. 

4. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

If you are looking for a milder form of vitamin C, this one is for you. It causes no to less irritation compared to other forms and might help with sensitivity to acne-prone skin types. Having good anti-inflammatory properties and anti-oxidant protection, it is used in several formulations targeting rosacea, acne, and breakouts. 

5. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 

For those seeking vitamin C benefits with hydrating properties, this form can be a great pick. It is gentle yet effective and suitable for almost all skin types. Along with usual vitamin C benefits, it hydrates your skin deeply making it a great option for ageing skin or very dry skin. 

Vitamin C Benefits for The Skin 

The benefits of Vitamin C for the skin are manifold, including;

Skin brightening 

Vitamin C is proven to brighten your skin tone if used regularly by inhibiting the production of melanin. It acts on the hyperpigmentation and removes dark spots. Pigmentation including age spots, melasma, post-ache hyperpigmentation, and sunspots can be reduced with the regular use of vitamin C. 

It degrades the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase which further restricts melanin synthesis. 

Protecting against environmental aggressors

From sunburns to pollution, these environmental factors can deteriorate skin condition making it look dull and affected. This ingredient is a powerful antioxidant and neutralises free radicals that are caused by environmental aggressors like pollution and UV exposure. 

These free radicals can also cause sun damage, normal to severe. Vitamin C discourages the cellular damage responsible for inflammation and premature ageing.

Healing wounds 

Your skin requires a fast-paced natural healing process and vitamin C can accelerate that. From treating minor cuts to inflamed acne, it can provide a soothing feeling and quicker recovery. In addition to this, vitamin C can also accelerate the risk of infection, scarring, and inflammation because wound healing requires the formation of collagen in the skin. 

Boosting collagen production

Collagen is integral for your skin, be it overall health or specifically for fine lines, sagging skin, or wrinkles. Vitamin C encourages its production and maintains the skin's elasticity as we age. This makes vitamin C a must-required skincare ingredient in several anti-ageing formulations. Along with vitamin C, there are two other enzymes necessary for the collagen production, including;

• lysyl hydroxylase to provide framework resilience
  
• prolyl hydroxylase to stabilise the molecule of collagen

Hydrating the skin

Some topical forms of vitamin C can be hydrating though used in formulations specifically for very dry skin types. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a derivative of vitamin C that hydrates the skin and decreases transepidermal water loss. This allows your skin to retain the moisture. 

Targeting under-eye circles

The skin around the eyes is thin and delicate and requires special care and attention. Applying topical vitamin C regularly can reduce the appearance of under-eye bags and dark circles. It plumps and hydrates the eye area smoothly and targets the roughness and discolouration in the skin. 

How to Use Vitamin C for Skincare 

Using vitamin C is not an intricate task but requires discipline as a priority. This is how you can incorporate a vitamin C serum into your skincare routine;

Begin with a cleanser that feels gentle on the skin. Cleanse & Hydrate suits all skin types and contains vitamin B5 to aid in barrier repair of your skin and keep it clean and refreshed. Proceed with the mild toner to prepare your skin for the upcoming products. 

Then, apply two to three drops of vitamin C serum and apply thoroughly on the face and neck. You can simply put an end to your routine by following with a non-greasy moisturiser. 

This is an efficient way to target your skin’s concerns slowly and effectively. 

How to Choose the Right Vitamin C Product 

Vitamin C is often formulated with other antioxidants and hydrating agents to increase the overall efficacy and performance of the product. In modern skincare, you can see the abundance of serums, lotions, cleansers, and whatnot infused with this wonderful skincare additive. 

It’s imperative to look at certain factors before purchasing your vitamin C;

Know your skin type

If your skin is dry, look for the hydrating derivative of vitamin C, or you can pair your vitamin C with hyaluronic acid or glycerin. If it's oily, choose lightweight and non-comedogenic products that do not clog pores. For sensitive skin, opt for milder forms such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate to minimise irritation.

Check the concentration

It's better to start with low concentration and move slowly toward the required or higher concentrations. Even if your skin is experiencing serious concerns, don't panic and rush into high concentration. 

Try stabilised derivatives

Vitamin C is prone to degradation, so it's necessary to opt for stabilised forms. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is the most stable form, oil soluble and works great for dry skin types. 

Consider your skin care targets

Don't get into the hype and always keep your skincare goals in mind. Buy formulas enriched with collagen and peptides paired with vitamin C for anti-ageing benefits. L-ascorbic acid serums with 10-15% work best for radiance and brightening while high concentrations combined with niacinamide can fade the hyperpigmentation away. 

Who Should Use Vitamin C 

Vitamin C suits all skin types but one must be careful for sensitive skin. If your skin is highly reactive and does not welcome most of the ingredients, a dermatologist's recommendation is required. 

Vitamin C is particularly beneficial for;

• Early signs of ageing 
  
• Wrinkles and fine lines
  
• Hyperpigmentation and other dark spots
  
• Melasma and eczema
  
• Skin exposed to environmental aggressors
  
• Dull and uneven skin tone 

Vitamin C Product Types

Vitamin C is readily available in different forms of products, from face cleansers and body washes to serums and moisturisers. You can buy your product depending on your needs and concerns. To get concentrated doses of vitamin C directly to your skin, you can try serums, as these are the most potent forms and can target your concerns appropriately. 

Serums are infused with formulations, often combined with hyaluronic acid for hydration or niacinamide for radiance to provide additional benefits. 

For occasional benefits, you can opt for vitamin C face masks, toners, and mists to get your skin an instant boost of glow. 

Ultra C Serum 

DRSQ's Ultra C Serum has 25% vitamin C formulated with 15% peptides, Kakadu plum, and hydrolysed marine collagen to brighten your skin and fight anti-ageing concerns. The serum's anti-inflammatories and anti-oxidants can brighten the skin tone by combating discolouration and hyperpigmentation while promoting collagen synthesis. 

Best Practices to Use Vitamin C 

Vitamin C's efficiency can be improved by following these best practices;  

• Cleanse your skin first before applying vitamin C to let it quickly absorb the product. Follow with a gentle and non-greasy moisturiser. 
• The best time to apply vitamin C serum is in the morning as it can fight free radicals and protect you from sun damage. 
• Start gradually if you are new to this ingredient. Don't go with the high concentration. Let your skin build its tolerance.
• Perform a patch test while using any new product to check if it suits your skin. 

What to Avoid With Vitamin C 

The good news is vitamin C can be paired with a lot of skincare ingredients. But with some skincare actives, you need to be extra careful like AHAs and BHAs.

Vitamin C, AHAs or BHAs, are acidic which can decrease the pH of your skin. This can contribute to increasing the dryness of your skin, causing irritation and roughness. In a few cases, people can experience peeling as well. However, you can use vitamin C in the morning and other AHAs or BHAs at night to avoid any side effects. 

Moreover, if your product contains denatured alcohol, fragrance, or anything harsh that might not suit your skin, you must not layer or even combine them. 

We suggest you take your dermatologist's advice as that would work well in this scenario. 

Key takeaway 

Vitamin C is a versatile skincare ingredient that brightens the skin and reduces early signs of ageing. It boosts collagen production and protects your skin from environmental stressors, including sun damage. 

With a range of low—to high-concentration products available, it's crucial to identify your concerns and gradually introduce vitamin C into your routine. Not all forms of vitamin C are alike—various derivatives target different skin concerns. Consulting a dermatologist can help you choose the most suitable option for your skin type and needs.

Resources

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.15748
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5579659/
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4492638/
https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/9/8/866