How to Choose Vitamin C Serum

Vitamin C is a trustworthy, common, and time-tested skincare ingredient that has carried its legacy to modern skincare. From revitalising the skin from within, fading dark spots, or combating premature ageing, vitamin C can do it all and more. 

But is your vitamin C serum worth your trust, and is it even effective? Not all vitamin C serums are formulated or created equally. Let’s explore what factors you should consider when buying a vitamin C serum, from type to concentration and formulation, we will explore everything. 

What is Vitamin C 

Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin and an antioxidant with the ability to fight any harmful agent that tries to attack your skin from outside or inside. These harmful agents can be free radicals generated from everyday sources like air pollution or UV rays. They can damage your cells and accelerate ageing. 

In contrast, vitamin C boosts collagen production and helps with the cellular damage and may aid ageing signs, including premature and photoageing. Vitamin C pairs effectively with many other skincare ingredients in topical formulations. Naturally existing in the skin, vitamin C helps reinforce the skin’s framework and elasticity.

Vitamin C Benefits 

Vitamin C provides an array of skin benefits, including; 

• Vitamin C helps reduce the production of melanin, a pigment responsible for giving the colour to skin. This way, it can treat post-acne hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
• Being an antioxidant, it can neutralise the free radical damage and protect your skin from inflammation and redness. It can support the immune system to prevent inflammation. 
• From under-eye puffiness to dark circles and fine lines around the eye area, vitamin C can be effective.
• Topical vitamin C can majorly contribute to saving your skin from sun-induced damage and soothing sunburns due to its antioxidant nature. 
• Vitamin C encourages collagen production responsible for improving sagging skin, wrinkles, and other signs of ageing. 
  

How to Choose a Vitamin C Serum

You should not randomly invest in a vitamin C serum just because it's all over the internet. 

While choosing your face serum, you have to think beyond the price and popularity, and pay attention to factors like stability, concentration, formulation, and the derivatives the serum uses. Let’s talk about these in detail.

Consider your skin type & concern

Vitamin C serum for dry skin is not the same as vitamin C for sensitive or oily skin. Knowing your skin type and concern helps you to get the right product from the rack. Several brands make vitamin C serums for specific skin types, or you can opt for serums formulated for all skin types. 

Look for concentration

You should not use a high-concentration vitamin C serum as a beginner. Start slow, with around 10-15% and then you can gradually increase. Furthermore, high concentrations cannot promise more effectiveness. The key is to find the right balance between potency and comfort for your skin.

Check the formulation

The other paired ingredients in the formula can make a difference to your concern. If you are trying to combat the dryness, hyaluronic acid and aloe vera are suitable. Even glycerin can help. Individuals struggling with dull skin, pigmentation, and uneven skin tone can benefit from ferulic acid and niacinamide with vitamin C, and acne-prone skin can try out panthenol and salicylic acid.  

Check for vitamin C derivative

Not every vitamin C serum is the same. While ascorbic acid is the most popular, being widely used, other derivatives can offer similar benefits while being gentler and more potent. Some commonly used vitamin C derivatives include;

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: Known for its intense ability to deeply penetrate the lipid layers of the skin, it can help all skin types to even out the tone and provide youthful skin. 

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Ideal for sensitive skin types, it is mild, soothing, and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties to aid irritation, acne, and rosacea.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: If you are looking to sort out ageing concerns or dehydrated skin, this one is hydrating and suits all skin types. 

Ascorbyl Palmitate: Having a good shelf life, this form of vitamin A strikes a perfect balance between antioxidant protection and stability. 

Also Read: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Vs. L-Ascorbic Acid: The Better Vitamin C Derivative

Why Use Vitamin C Serum 

Even though you consume vitamin C through diet, there is no assurance that it is directly going into your skin. Here is why you need topical vitamin C in the form of serum to nourish your skin directly. 

Serums are lightweight, easy to absorb, and can target your specific concern by penetrating deeper into the skin's layers. Vitamin C serum works well when layered under moisturisers and sunscreen, both during your morning and nighttime routine. 

How to Apply Vitamin C Serum

Follow the steps below to build a vitamin C skincare routine;

• Cleanse your face and neck thoroughly with Cream Cleanser. 
  
• Apply two to three drops of Ultra C serum with 25% Vitamin C. Wait and let it dry. 
  
• Follow with a gentle moisturiser like Advanced Repair at night, and Skin Protect during the morning routine. Skin Protect is an SPF-infused moisturiser, so you don’t have to worry about using sunscreen separately. 
  
• Use Eye Magic night eye serum at night to perfectly end your routine. 

Whether you are new to the vitamin C ingredient or trying a new vitamin C serum, a patch test is necessary to save your skin from potential risks. Take two to three drops of vitamin C serum and apply gently, and wait for the next 24 hours. 

If everything is alright, the product is safe to use. But if you feel any discomfort or notice redness or rashes followed by itching, discontinue it. 

When to Use Vitamin C Serum

Vitamin C is safe to use every day, but if your skin is sensitive, you can start by using it twice a week or alternate days to build the tolerance. Once your skin starts accepting it, you can switch to everyday use. Moreover, vitamin C can be applied twice daily in both morning and evening routines, if your skin adapts to it well.

Ultra C 25% Vitamin C Serum + 15% Peptides

DRSQ's Ultra C serum has 25% vitamin C, with 15% peptides, and 2% ferulic acid to target ageing signs, including sagging skin, loose skin, wrinkles, fine lines, and more by promoting collagen synthesis. It can fade your pigmentation away with vitamin C, inducing transporter (SVCT-1) synthesis in skin cells. This serum is suitable for all skin types and recommended for the AM routine. 

References:

Firas Al-Niaimi, Nicole Yi Zhen Chiang, "Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications”, 2017 July

Gabriela Correia, Sofia Magina, "Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review", 2023 July

Bianca Sanabria, Lauren E Berger, Hana Mohd, Lora Benoit, Thu Minh Truong, Bozena B Michniak-Kohn, Babar K Rao, "Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C on the Appearance of Wrinkles: A Systematic Literature Review", 2023 Sept

Patricia K Farris, "Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions", 2005 July