How to Exfoliate Without Compromising Your Skin Barrier

Dr saba qutub
A woman with a compromised skin barrier applying a chemical exfoliant with a cotton pad

How to Exfoliate Your Skin Without Disturbing Its Barrier

Exfoliation can help your skin appear younger and glow vibrantly. It is one of the powerful, effective yet simple ways to achieve your skin goals and keep it healthy. A well-exfoliated skin welcomes skincare actives better and goes deeper into the skin to act. But oftentimes, exfoliation can do more harm to your skin than benefit it. This happens when you exfoliate abruptly, harshly, or use the wrong products or ingredients. 

This blog is dedicated to helping you understand the right way to exfoliate your skin without disrupting its protective barrier. 

What is Exfoliation

The process of exfoliation refers to removing dead skin cells from the skin's surface, and to make it look brighter and smoother. Though our skin has a natural tendency to shed dead cells every 28 days but a lot of factors, including pollution, ageing, and poor lifestyle, can slow this process. That’s why you need exfoliation to get your glow back.

Exfoliation can target dullness, unclog pores, and accelerate the cellular turnover. When your skin is clean and healthy, other skincare products like serums and moisturisers can work better. 

But not all exfoliation methods are created equal. You must choose a suitable method according to your skin type and ongoing concerns. Opting for the wrong exfoliation methods can cause microdamage and might harm your skin's barrier. 

Can Exfoliation Affect Your Skin Barrier?

The skin barrier is made up of cells, lipids, and ceramides. It protects the skin against harm and irritants and helps retain moisture.

Yes, exfoliation is a potent process that can impact your protective barrier both positively and negatively. Over-exfoliation or using harsh scrubs or strong acids in high concentration can have a major impact on your barrier. The key is to exfoliate correctly. 

Chemical Vs Physical Exfoliation

There are two major ways to exfoliate your skin: chemical and physical exfoliation.

  • In chemical exfoliation, active ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are used to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells. Poly-hydroxy acids or PHAs are also used. The process makes it easy for the dead skin cells to be cleared away.
  • In physical exfoliation, scrubs, skincare tools, and washcloths are used to manually remove dead cells from the skin to exfoliate. Physical exfoliation mechanically eliminates the outermost layer of dead skin cells to promote cell renewal. It is also known as mechanical or manual exfoliation. People with skin conditions like acne scars, burns, or open wounds must avoid this method.

However, no matter what material you use for physical exfoliation, be gentle with your skin, as it can cause microtears and damage to the skin's barrier. 

Exfoliation for Different Skin Types

All skin types are different and unique in their own ways. You need to understand your skin, its concerns, and then choose a method accordingly. Let’s see what type of exfoliation can work for your skin below.

  1. Oily – If your skin tends to release sebum more than usual and is considered oily, manual exfoliation can work. Use gentle ingredients and scrub in slow circular motions for effective results. 
  2. Dry – People with dry skin may need exfoliation to get rid of the dead, flaky skin on the settled surface. It is recommended to avoid harsh abrasives or physical exfoliants on dry skin, as this can lead to more dryness and may result in rashes. 
  3. Combination – Both chemical and physical exfoliation can help combination skin. But avoid combining them or using both within 24 hours. While using chemical exfoliants, you can choose from AHAs or BHAs and apply them to specific areas of your skin. Ensure applying moisturiser after exfoliation.

    Also Read: AHA Vs BHA: Know the Difference
  4. Sensitive – You cannot do worse to your skin than using a physical exfoliant on it. It can irritate the skin, cause inflammation, or even trigger underlying skin conditions. A mild chemical exfoliant can support if used carefully.
  5. Normal – Normal skin type can ensure both types of exfoliation. physical or chemical. They can switch between the two as per the skin's requirements or concerns. 

Ingredients for Exfoliating Your Skin

Chemical exfoliation requires careful consideration of the exfoliating agents. When choosing exfoliating products, look for ingredients that remove dead cells and support barrier health.

  • Malic Acid – A gentle AHA used to improve skin's texture and improve radiance, often suitable for sensitive and dry skin types. If you're dealing with dullness and uneven skin tone, you can give this a try. 
  • Tartaric Acid – An antioxidant, AHA, and a gentle exfoliant that can help to brighten the complexion and smooth the skin. 
  • Glycolic Acid – A potent AHA which has the ability to penetrate your skin deeper, boost collagen production, fade the pigmentation, and target ageing signs without compromising your skin barrier. 
  • Citric Acid – It is naturally found in fruits and can balance the pH levels of your skin. Works best for combination skin prone to post-acne hyperpigmentation and discolouration. People with oily skin can use it too, but cautiously. 
  • Salicylic Acid – The most popular BHA, this can go deeper into your skin, clean pores, and remove excess sebum. This further helps to combat blackheads, breakouts, and acne-prone skin without causing dryness. 
  • Lactic Acid – Derived from milk, lactic acid can exfoliate the skin while contributing to barrier strength and improving moisture retention. It leaves your skin supple, soft, and healthy with disciplined use. 

How to Exfoliate Your Skin for Effective Results

Every skin type needs exfoliation, but not all benefit from the same approach. The secret lies in choosing the right product and frequency. Here’s how you can benefit the most from this process; 

  1. Handle your skin with care – Rubbing harshly doesn’t give a cleaner, better skin. In fact, you will end up with inflamed, red, or irritated skin. Specifically, if you choose physical exfoliants, move the product gently in circular motions with minimal force. 
  2. Choose products enriched with moisturising and barrier-strengthening ingredients – Exfoliation itself is a little intense process, and choosing harsh products can harm your barrier. Opt for mild and soothing ingredients in the exfoliants. 
  3. Refer to Your Doctor – If you’re new to exfoliation and still exploring the right ingredients and products for you, talking to your doctor may be of great help. They can suggest actives accordingly. 

Body Elixir – Hydrating & Exfoliating Body Serum

This is an exfoliating serum with hydrating properties to clean and calm your skin without disrupting its barrier. Infused with exfoliants like lactic acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid, this body serum can accelerate cellular renewal, reduce pigmentation, and help with Keratosis Pilaris and ingrown hair. 

DRSQ Body Elixir Exfoliating & Hydrating B3 Body Serum

It also contains niacinamide, an anti-inflammatory to boost ceramide production and strengthen the skin barrier. All skin types can use Body Elixir. Cleanse your body, take one to two pumps, and apply it gently. 

Bringing It All Together

Just exfoliating isn’t enough; it’s important to do it the right way and with the right products and ingredients. Exfoliation is a powerful process, but if not done correctly, it can compromise your skin barrier. Start by identifying your skin type, then understand your skin concerns and goals, and only then choose a good exfoliating serum that suits your needs.

References

  • J M Jensen, E Proksch, "The skin's barrier", 2009 Dec
  • Kathi C Madison, "Barrier function of the skin: "la raison d'être" of the epidermis", 2003 Aug
  • Anna Nicolaou, Alexandra C Kendall, "Bioactive lipids in the skin barrier mediate its functionality in health and disease", 2024 Aug
  • Sheau-Chung Tang, Jen-Hung Yang, "Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin ", April 10 

Dr saba qutub

Dr. Saba Qutub, MBBS, DRANZCOG, FRACGP, is an Australian General Practitioner, Cosmetic Physician and the founder of DRSQ Skincare. She’s been practicing cosmetic medicine for 10+ years, and her clinical interests span dermatology, skin cancer, women’s and children’s health, and mental health. She writes about clinically proven skincare practices and long-term skin wellness.