Vitamin A Derivatives: Which One is Right For Your Skin?

Vitamin A is a beneficial skincare ingredient targeting, but not limited to, concerns like ageing and acne. While our skin needs vitamin A for several problems, it cannot be synthesised in our bodies naturally. This is where topical and OTC vitamin A products intervene. 

But vitamin A doesn’t necessarily mean “the vitamin A” every time. It can be retinol or retinaldehyde. Each vitamin A form for the skin is different and serves unique purposes for the skin, and knowing them can help you make an informed choice. 

Let's explore vitamin A for skin and its derivatives to learn which might suit you and which you should avoid.

Vitamin A Benefits for Your Skin

According to the National Institute of Health, vitamin A is a group of fat-soluble retinoids, primarily retinol and retinyl esters, which can contribute directly to the skin’s health. 

Holding loads of proven benefits, vitamin A has a lot to offer to your skin, including;

• Promoting Collagen Synthesis: Vitamin A can stimulate collagen production in your skin, which can make your skin firm, plump, and supple. 
• Fighting Ageing: Experts believe vitamin A is quite constructive in combating early ageing signs and gives positive results.
• Keeping the Skin Layers Healthy: This Vitamin promotes the overall well-being of the two top skin layers, the dermis and epidermis, and helps with the skin’s texture and tone.
• Normalising Cell’s Function: Vitamin A has a special ability to influence the cell behaviour. This can encourage younger-looking skin. 
• Preventing Breakouts: It normalises the oil production in the skin to reduce acne breakouts, blemishes and acne marks. With its healing properties for wounds, you get a soothed skin. 
• Fading Post-Acne Hyperpigmentation: It regulates the activity of a vital enzyme involved in melanin production called tyrosinase to fade the hyperpigmentation away.
• Regenerating Newer Cells: Vitamin A helps the shedding of old cells of the skin while stimulating the new, healthier cells, contributing to a brighter complexion. 
  

Vitamin A Derivatives

The three main types of vitamin A are Retinol, Retinaldehyde, and Retinoic Acid. However, less-popular forms like Retinyl Acetate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate are often used to treat specific skin concerns. 

Retinol

Retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A and belongs to a vitamin A sub-family called retinoids. Some may confuse retinol with vitamin A because it is the most popular form of the latter. It needs to be converted into retinoic acid to provide your skin with certain vitamin A benefits, which may lead to slower results. Certain enzymes in our body perform this action. 

Retinol is a powerful ingredient as its way of communicating with the skin cells is unique. It's right to claim that retinol almost tells the skin to behave in a certain manner.

It helps to unclog pores, which is associated with other skin concerns, including acne, blackheads, and whiteheads. Another benefit that is talked about is its ability to work on wrinkles, fine lines, and other signs of ageing. 

Retinoic Acid

Retinol and retinoic acid are related compounds but not the same. Retinoic acid is a biologically active form of vitamin A and has played an integral role in medical and cosmetic applications over the past few years. Doctors can prefer retinoic acid over retinol because the latter is less potent. 

Retinoic acid promotes clear and clean skin by improving cellular turnover and unclogging pores like retinol. People with skin conditions, like psoriasis, hyperpigmentation, and severe acne, can find relief with its consistent use. 

Retinoic acid contributes to fine and younger-looking skin by positively affecting your skin’s texture and complexion. You can get it as a prescription medication only.  

Retinaldehyde

Commonly known as retinal, retinaldehyde also belongs to the retinoid family. Its effect on the skin lies somewhere between the retinol and retinoic acid. Its potency is greater than that of retinol, but at the same time, it is a milder option than retinoic acid. 

While its effects are not much different from other vitamin A derivatives, it can be a proven and safe option and might cause less irritation to the skin. 

Also Read: Retinol vs Retinaldehyde: What Sets Them Apart?

Retinyl Palmitate

This can be a good alternative for people with sensitive skin. Retinyl Palmitate is a less potent form than retinol, but gentler and stable. It is an over-the-counter skincare ingredient and can be prescribed by your doctor if you are new to vitamin A in your skincare routine. 

Retinyl palmitate can improve skin's elasticity, smooth complexion, and induce intense moisture. 

Other than popular forms of vitamin A, like retinol and retinaldehyde, there are other lesser-known vitamin A derivatives with many skincare benefits. 

1. Retinyl Acetate: This form is less potent and promotes a radiant appearance. Its slow-release nature makes it an ideal choice for vitamin A beginners.
2. Adapalene: Adapalene, found in over-the-counter and prescription formulations, treats stubborn acne of any kind. 
3. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, or HPR, is a comparatively new vitamin A derivative that offers almost similar benefits as retinol to combat ageing and hyperpigmentation. 
4. Retinaldehyde Dimethyl Acetal: This is a more stable form of retinaldehyde that can serve as a great formulation for irritation. 

Which Vitamin A is Best for You?

There is no “one fixed rule for everyone” for selecting the right retinoid for you. Factors including your skin type, tolerance, and concerns matter. The ideal way to achieve the optimal retinoid treatment is to ask your doctor. However, retinaldehyde is often considered the best vitamin A for your skin as it is a more potent form than retinol. Experts may suggest it due to its gentleness. If you are a beginner, it can be a good option to start with. 

How to Use Retinoid in Your Skincare Routine

A thoughtful approach is required to ensure the effectiveness of topical vitamin A, especially when you are new to the ingredient. It’s highly recommended to consult your doctor before trying any formulation with vitamin A. While you can try a vitamin A cream, vitamin A serum is mostly prescribed by doctors. 

Step 1: Start with the Cleanser: Choose a mild cleanser from DRSQ’s range of cleansers. Take 2-3 pea-sized amounts, lather with water, and rub evenly on the face and neck. Rinse thoroughly. 

Step 2: Apply Vitamin A Serum: Pat on a few drops of your favourite vitamin A serum on the face and neck. Wait till it dries out completely for the maximum absorption. 

Step 3: Lock in with a Moisturiser: Counteract the dryness with any lightweight moisturiser. Ceramides and hyaluronic acids may be of great help. DRSQ has some hydrating and soothing moisturisers for different purposes; you can choose according to your concern and skin type. 

DRSQ’s Vitamin A Serums

DRSQ has vitamin A for everyone. Formulated in 3 strengths, these vitamin A serums use retinaldehyde infused with niacinamide, DNA peptides, and lactic acid to vanish the fine lines and crow's feet. This synergistic blend can fight acne and protect your skin from sun exposure, pollution, and other environmental aggressors. 

Starter Vitamin A with 0.25% retinaldehyde: This low-strength formula helps vitamin A beginners build their tolerance gradually. 

Miracle ProVitamin with 0.5% retinaldehyde: It’s an intermediate strength vitamin A serum for skin already introduced to vitamin A.

Advanced Vitamin A with 1% retinaldehyde: A high-strength formula for experienced users.

How to Choose The Best Retinoid Product

Pay attention to a few key factors while purchasing a retinoid product for yourself; 

• Look for the type of retinoid. Choose according to your concern and skin type. Check for the strength and complete formulation. 
• Consider the additional ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or niacinamide. The better the combination, the better the outcome. 
• Go for the airtight and opaque packaging for retinoids to ensure it is protected from light and air. 
  

What You Should Know Before Using Topical Vitamin A

While vitamin A is a proven safe ingredient but using it without adequate precautions might cause plenty of poor effects. Consider a few things before going into a vitamin A treatment plan;

• Begin with a low-strength vitamin A. Apply it on alternate days and gradually increase application frequency as your skin becomes used to it. 
• Ask a dermatologist whether you really need vitamin A, which form must be incorporated, and what the right strength is. Moreover, you need this consultation when you intend to layer this ingredient with any other one.
• Do a patch test on a small skin portion to check if it welcomes a new product or ingredient. Though mild irritation is often normal, you must wash off immediately and rush to your doctor if your skin strongly reacts. 
• Increase SPF. Retinoids can make your skin prone to sunburn. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 to protect your skin from harmful ultraviolet rays.  
  

End Note

Vitamin A is a sought-after ingredient in skincare, appearing in various forms, from retinol, retinoic acid, and retinaldehyde to some lesser-known derivatives. Consistency is required while using vitamin A, whether as a pro or a beginner. The different vitamin A forms have different potencies, and they are all extensively useful for skincare concerns, including acne, fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. 

References:

• The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, July 2017, pages 14-17
• National Institutes of Health (NIH), "Vitamin A Overview," 2020
• Healthline, "Retinoic Acid: Benefits for Your Skin," May 2021
• Dermstore, "Retinaldehyde and Its Uses in Skincare," 2021
• American Academy of Dermatology, "A Comprehensive Guide to Retinol and Retinoids in Skincare," 2020